dual 1214 service manual

dual 1214 service manual

NOTE To view PDF files the latest version of the official acrobat reader is required. The PDF files are provided under strict licence. Reproduction without prior permission or for financial gain is strictly prohibited. This website is not affiliated with or sponsored by Dual. Mine seems stuck. If you remove the pin in the middle and the chrome ring you may see it better. Usually a groove in the shaft. You can move the ring with a very small screw drive so it crosses the gap and then pry it off. Other units have a lock which you can access under the rubber cover by moving a lever sideways while pulling up. Motor Or Strobe Hum Cs 506 Is Dual 505-1 Tonearm. Cs 505 Dustcover Hinge Repair. Please do not offer the downloaded file for sell only use it for personal usage. Looking for other manual? For this no need registration. May be help you to repair. You could suffer a fatal electrical shock. Instead, contact your nearest service center. Note! To open downloaded files you need acrobat reader or similar pdf reader program. In addition, Also some files are djvu so you need djvu viewer to open them. These free programs can be found on this page: needed progs If you use opera you have to disable opera turbo function to download file. If you cannot download this file, try it with CHROME or FIREFOX browser. Translate this page: Relevant AUDIO forum topics: Dual C 814 Deck feltamasztasa Szep napot az uraknak! Szeretnek egy kis segitseget kerni, ha lehetseges. Nem vagyok szaki a temaban, ugy,hogy csak konyhanyelven,ha kerhetem. Adott a cimben szereplo magnodeck. Kulsoleg szep allapotu, de tobb sebbol verzett. A mechanikajat sikeresen feltamasztottam,nem egy konnyu eset volt,de mostanra minden mukodik. Az van vele,hogy bekapcsolaskor,csak a muszerek as a kazettafeszek hattarvilagitasa muxik.http://www.tries.cz/media/images/upload/8565a-manual.xml

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Sok kuzdelem utan annyira jutottam, hogy az oldalrol is letoltheto rajzan,a TR 316 - al jelolt tranzisztor B es C labait rovidre zarva minden tovabbi muvelet megjavul, enyhe alapzaj kisereteben. A szakikat kerdeznem hol lehet a hibas alkatresz.merre kutakodjak?:hmmm. Minden epito hozzaszolast kulon megkoszonok !:bow: Udvozletem mindenkinek! Keresem a fentnevezett (DUAL CHANNEL POWER AMPLIFIER PA200) erosito kapcsolasi rajzat,mert nem talalom sehol. Felteszek kepet rola nagyon ugy nez ki mintha BEAG lenne de nincs gyarto feltuntetve. A hangszoro kimenetein (4-8-16 ohm)-os ladakat lehet kacsolni a kimeneti feszultseg 20V (4ohm)-on de 14V-nal vagja a jelet (torz)! Ha valaki tudna ebben segiteni azt nagyon meg koszonnem! Mellekelek kepeket hatha talalkoztatok ezzel a geppel. Varom megtisztelo valaszotokat. Udv:buszosgyuri. Dual496 lemezjatszo mechanika javitasa Udv.mindenkinek! Az torten, hogy vegig dolgozta az elmult 35 evet meg az elmult nyarat eredetiSajnos egyik tranyo meghalt, (pedig nyaron meg ment) hogy mitol, nem tudom mert hangfalaktol nem, mert a buli masik csodaval Philips AH578 szepen lement ua.hangfalakkal. A problemam az hogy az eredeti vegfok felallast, 2N5633-2N6230 part nem tudom beszerezni. Szetneztem, keresgeltem es arra jutottam, hogy a vegfokot az MJ15003-MJ15004 parossalKernem szepen a velemenyeteket, illetve ha valakinek volna a 2N parosbol ertesitsen. Koszonettel es tisztelettel: ImreYou can write in English language into the forum (not only in Hungarian). Looking for a belt? If you didn't find your belt listed in our Find My Dual player tool then you can search the mechanical drawing likely found in this service manual for the original Dual 1214 belt part number and see if it is listed in our Find My Dual original belt part number lookup X-ref tool before trying the last option of contacting us with your measurement info. All Rights Reserved. All trademarked names, logos, and brands are property of their respective owners.http://www.energo-winstal.pl/userfiles/85650a-manual.xml

All company, product and service names used in this website are for identification purposes only. Their use does not imply endorsement by any brand unless expressly stated. Super high amount of views. 0 sold, 1 available. More Super high amount of views. 0 sold, 1 available. You are the light of the world. Read or download the pdf for free.Cause. Symptom. Can. Too much clearance between tab on switch arm (221) and start lever (226). Wumody. Bouncy. During change, stop and start operations, noises from the mechanism can be heard in system spea- kst. No sound. Motor uill not shut off uhen tonearm is on arm rest. Acoustic Feedback. Muting switch missdJos- ted. Distance batueen contact springs and shorting contact is too great. Spacing too small. Capacitor across pouer suitch is shorted See above. Replace capacitor (0.1 pf, 700 U) Move cables Description. Duan-. Please use the form below to log in, or click the 'sign-up' tab to create a new account. Please let us know if you have any questions or comment on how we run Hifi-Manuals. The 1214 belongs to the 1200 series. The service manual functions as a repair guide for troubleshooting and sometimes contains tips for refurbishing and modifications. This data is collected and thus shared with Google. Got it. Feeling very out of my depth. Won't turn at all. Seems common. I've been trawling audiokarma etc and had a look at at least one service manual. First step seems to be to try and put some light mineral oil down the shaft. But here's the thing.got the platter off and lifted the plate off its plinth, but I can't access the bottom of the shaft past the plate it rises up through. Just can't get near it to put oil in. Do I need to remove the motor?? Is that easy to do without removing the idler which seems rather less straightforward with c clips and what not. Feeling very out of my depth. Won't turn at all. Seems common. I've been trawling audiokarma etc and had a look at at least one service manual.

Do I need to remove the motor?? Is that easy to do without removing the idler which seems rather less straightforward with c clips and what not. Then, some light machine oil can be applied and the motor reassembled. And yes, the idler will likely need to be removed. There are no shortcuts with this job. I've probably repaired a couple of hundred over the years and I know from where I speak. In fairness, it's not a difficult job, but you do need some familiarity with simple mechanical systems and some simple tools to do the job. Some forums seem to suggest the lower bearing can be accessed with the motor still attached. Again, some things I read say you have to get a multimeter onto it while running and I don't really want to mess with AC power.Some forums seem to suggest the lower bearing can be accessed with the motor still attached?And, there is no need to fear anything. It's not a complicated job. Remove the bolts and the bottom bearing will be free. Remove the capstan and then you can remove the top bearing. Clean, lube and you're good to go. The Earthing is done at the base of the turntable.I'm deeply grateful. ?? ?? Further, as you say, the value of this turntable really precludes a full professional job I think.it will far outstrip the value. I'm deeply grateful. ?? ?? Further, as you say, the value of this turntable really precludes a full professional job I think.it will far outstrip the value. If you include my nic in the reply, then I will be notified. Again, deeply grateful and also very impressed by this community. I'm fairly new here but have been treated with respect and support. My wife loves the mid century look of the idler though which is reason enough to try and get it going I figure! ?? Again, deeply grateful and also very impressed by this community. I'm fairly new here but have been treated with respect and support. My wife loves the mid century look of the idler though which is reason enough to try and get it going I figure! ??

Quieter and uses a better tone arm. If you include my nic in the reply, then I will be notified. Well, I've got the motor apart and a bit puzzled by what I see. It looks completely dry with no sticky residue and was maybe corrosion holding it stuck.Has this motor had work on it do you think or is the drill mark a balancing measure. You can tell I'm a noob at this. lol It looks completely dry with no sticky residue and was maybe corrosion holding it stuck.Has this motor had work on it do you think or is the drill mark a balancing measure. You can tell I'm a noob at this. lolThe drill hole is when they balanced it at the factory. You still need to clean the bearing (top and bottom - you haven't shown us the top bearing yet) thoroughly and re-lube with light machine oil. It should spin freely after.OK, so I've cleaned the top and bottom bearings with isopropyl alcohol and cotton buds although do I need to remove the brass spindle to totally remove and disassemble the top bearing. I struggled to hold the camera and the motor to photograph that top bearing. It spins now I've re-lubed but want to make sure I've done the top bearing correctly.The drill hole is when they balanced it at the factory. It should spin freely after.Perhaps the bottom plate is 180 degrees rotated and it no longer completely lines up. I will strip it, give it all a longer soak and start again. Perhaps the bottom plate is 180 degrees rotated and it no longer completely lines up. I will strip it, give it all a longer soak and start again. A soak is not nearly adequate. Keep using cotton buds until they come out clean. But yes, if the bearings are not properly aligned, the armature will bind. A soak is not nearly adequate. But yes, if the bearings are not properly aligned, the armature will bind. I was worried about alignment if I did so. I cleaned around the top and bottom of the bearing with the shaft still through it. Bottom bearing I did get right in with a cotton bud.

Perhaps I'm being too cautious here and it just slots back on all the way. I gather it should spin very freely with little resistance? I cleaned around the top and bottom of the bearing with the shaft still through it. Bottom bearing I did get right in with a cotton bud.Perhaps I'm being too cautious here and it just slots back on all the way. You can adjust the capstan position later.I gather it should spin very freely with little resistance? You can adjust the capstan position later.So there is some learning happening even if some missteps. Rather it happen on a 1214 than a 1219 or better. Thank you master ! ?? In the end the issue appears to have been some lingering gunk in the felt of the lower bearing that needed to come out. You were right that there are no shortcuts with this job. Now to read up on armfall positions etc. The turntable is mostly working brilliantly but occasionally drops the needle just short of the beginning of an lp on auto start. Not a bad outcome though given where I stated from.They look quite shocked and confused when I add that I'm telling them the short version, and that I have nothing to gain by telling them the long version. There seems to be the assumption that I would deliberately waste their time because they have a lack of patience.Paste as plain text instead Display as a link instead Clear editor Upload or insert images from URL.Reasonable offers considered. Item Condition: Used (Excellent condition) Reason for selling: Moved up a level Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal, COD Only Extra Info: Comes with original boxes, wireless setup for anyone wanting to do so. Items are in excellent condition except for my grubby fingerprints, which will be wiped clean.Quite a clever little feature actually. Payment Method: Pickup - Cash Extra Info: I don't know what more to say about these Dual tanks, they don't break, they sound amazing, and if I was to go into war I'd want a suit of armour made from these turntables.

Pictures: Had a full service and new plinth rebuild about a year ago. I have an old Garrard cover in excellent condition that I use on this but not hinged. It is included. Reason for selling: Not sure - upgrading I think. Payment Method: Pickup only - Cash Extra Info: This is considered to be one of the best Duals ever made. It has a 1 year old OM10 cart and a new plinth. This was serviced by Chris Radford in Hornsby and he spent a lot of time getting everything smooth and working again. I think in it's current form it sounds very good. With a better cart, who knows. Now this model has the record changer function where you can stack a bunch of LPs and it will drop each one. I never used this and can't confirm if it works. I like it how it is. Speed is good and all of the auto functions work. No idea about 78s. Sound is very dynamic and I have never had any problems with the tracking. Note: When the arm first moves across to play it makes a small creaking sound. Once the arm drops in place to play it is silent. That mechanism only engages when moving the arm. It can be fixed but never bothered me. Put the LP on, press the button and go and sit down. You get to hear the first note from your seat and not standing next to your speaker. It is a beautiful turntable and I am not sure about what I need to spend to upgrade from this but I guess that is part of the journey. The asking price is way less than I spent on the service and plinth. Edit: Also the black parts of the table were resprayed as part of the service. Pictures: Our publication is supported by its audience. By clicking links on our site, we may earn affiliate commission, but our editorial remains entirely independent and unbiased. Australian Business Number 79 662 719 408. It contains circuit diagrams ( schemas ) etc. It also usually contains parts catalog. After placing order we'll send You download instructions on Your email.

See below for delivery information We'll send You download instructions on Your email. What is PDF? How to get Adobe Reader ? This my project had stopped without you. The PDF copies are very clear and easy to read. I will remain a customer. Lots of good info in this one. Made something vintage even more valuable since it's working great! Thanks. Wenn Sie die Fragen haben oder suchen eine nicht eingestellte in unserem Shop Anleitung, stehen wir immer zur Verfugung. Nehmen Sie mich auf jeden Fall in Ihre Favoriten auf. Viel Spa? und Erfolg beim Reparieren!!! EUR 18,50 Buy It Now 18d 6h See Details DUAL - Turntable 1214 - Bedienungsanleitung Operating Instructions - B12118 EUR 8,42 Buy It Now 8d 8h See Details Original Dual 1214 Ersatzteilliste 1971 EUR 16,99 Buy It Now 10h 30m See Details You are the light of the world. Something went wrong. Cancel Thanks, we'll look into this. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. Something went wrong.Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods. Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections.

If you don't follow our item condition policy for returns, you may not receive a full refund. Refunds by law: In Australia, consumers have a legal right to obtain a refund from a business if the goods purchased are faulty, not fit for purpose or don't match the seller's description. More information at returns. Contact the seller - opens in a new window or tab and request a postage method to your location. Please enter a valid postcode. Please enter a number less than or equal to 1. All Rights Reserved. View cart for details. This is an original factory issued manual. Not a copy. We will include a ” Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Very minimal damage to the cover including scuff marks, but no holes or tears. The dust jacket for hard covers may not be included. Binding has minimal wear. The majority of pages are undamaged with minimal creasing or tearing, minimal pencil underlining of text, no highlighting of text, no writing in margins. No missing pages. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections. Contact the seller - opens in a new window or tab and request a shipping method to your location. Please enter a valid postal code. Please enter a number less than or equal to 1. All Rights Reserved. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Took the motor apart and lightly oiled the bearings, and that went away quickly. I inadvertently broke and subsequently lost a spring-loaded wire on the original headshell while trying to sort out the root of the dead channel.

Tightened up the arm by carefully tightening the screw under the tonearm from the side. Got a cheap replacement courtesy of a generous AKer, but while waiting, it seemed the replacement idler stopped wanting to make contact with the pulley or the platter, causing it to not rotate or rotate extremely slowly. I carefully cleaned out the old grease from the long arm that connects the idler assembly to the start mechanism, and cleaned the idler, pulley, and platter with some steel wool. Only problem now is that I'm back to slightly before square one. Now the start lever seems to be acting up. It'll start, but then immediately switch off when the needle drops onto the record. If I hold it in the start position, it'll stay on, but it cannot be stopped unless I move the needle to the end of the record and the mechanism picks it up and shuts off. In addition, the tonearm doesn't actually rest down on the record unless it's extremely thick or I'm tracking with the force of the gods, so that's a thing. The idler now has a fair bit of grip, but the speed is still warped and slow (about 3-5RPM slower than normal, with 2% wow and flutter per my measurements!), even after carefully cleaning and regreasing everything again and making sure the idler contacts the pulley in the middle when the pitch control is centered. Idler and pulley and platter look fine, and don't have any flats or warps, and the idler rubber is nice and pliable, not hard or glazed or cracked. All springs are fine. Is this something I can get at the hardware store, or is it unobtanium. And to top it all off, even after cleaning the contacts on the headshell and muting switch, and replacing the headshell, the right channel is still dead. I put the original Stanton cartridge on my Pioneer and got clear sound from both channels, so I know the cart's fine, and the original RCA's are in good shape and work when plugged into my bluetooth receiver.

The tonearm leads look fine going from the arm into the RCA assembly, although maybe they could do with being resoldered. This thing just doesn't wanna work, does it?There are adjustments for all of this. I've done some of them but could not possibly describe what I did in a post here. The service manual is your ticket.Did all of the adjustments and got nowhere, hence the post.I had to put mine up on four cans of green beans so that I could get to the underside while I moved things around. Was having the same problem with the power switch--move the arm from rest, and the deck would power up but only until the arm was over the record. Then it would shut down. The issue was the long arm that stretches from the base of the tonearm over to the power switch. I looked at the service manual for the 1214, this problem is addressed in Figures 18 and 19. I was working on a 1229, the issue that caused the switch arm and pawl to allow the power switch to open was a problem further out in the linkage. Some previous own tried to service the deck and screwed up the adjustment of the long switch arm. The locking washer for the idler is a small nylon donut that stretches over the top of the idler spindle. You might be able to try a small circlip just to see if it hold speed, but my guess is you're going to get some noise out of it with a circlip in there. Something you can try that might help the tonearm movement is to lock the arm in place and then press the start lever to start the cycle. Let it shut itself off again, then try pressing the start lever again. I don't have a 1214 here to look at but I've got a 1218 and they're pretty close. On the 1218, there's an adjustment to the cueing plunger that might be the reason why the arm isn't descending all the way down to the record. These old changers can drive you crazy, as you're finding out.The arm movement problems(s) you are experiencing may be caused buy gummed up pivot points in levers resembling these.

There may not be a 1214 per se but a lot of 1200 models will share common mechanical parts. I believe he uses the 1219 as an example for that series. - click on Service Tips.The arm movement problems(s) you are experiencing may be caused buy gummed up pivot points in levers resembling these. View attachment 1397687 There may not be a 1214 per se but a lot of 1200 models will share common mechanical parts. I believe he uses the 1219 as an example for that series. - click on Service Tips. Click to expand. Took all of it apart, cleaned off all the old grease, and regreased. Seems to have helped some, but I think it’s either still not making full contact or the idler is being pushed up on the pulley due to the lack of lockwasher. Not sure if it’s long gone or I removed it and forgot about it in my clumsiness, but I have a feeling it will solve the problem. Sadly, doesn’t seem like the local hardware stores have anything small enough. My headshell washers almost fit, but are too stiff to be fitted into the spindle. The other stuff I can sort out with time and patience, but it’s the dead channel that really puzzles me. Wires look good, contacts clean, cart’s good, cleaned switches, and yet nothin’. I do get a hum on the other channel, so there’s definitely something coming through.There are a few nifty suggestions. The washer on my1225 broke on disassembly but still works, fortunately.Cleaning the carrier's terminals is easy however getting at those on the underside is a bit trickier but it can be done. Mirror and high intensity flashlight to see what your doing then what every works to do the cleaning. Like scraping with a pointy Xacto blade, Have you checked continuity all the way along the line. Cartridge pin to RCA plugs at the end of the cable. Some mini-grabbers for your DMM would be useful. And not to imply anything but you do have the right color cartridge wires going to the correct pins.

I made that mistake a week or two ago and that's after 50 years of fiddling with these things. First time in a long time but it can happen. I think it would be less overwhelming if you addressed problem areas one at a time. I'd get that idler issue straightened out first and then move along to the tone arm.I’m going to attempt sanding it, since the rubber seems nice and pliable, but I am cleaning off what appears to be a smidgen of rubber residue when I clean off the inside of the platter, which tells me it’s probably turning into goo. Replacement’s likely to come with a lockwasher anyway. I’ll try and tackle the channel problems once those are taken care of.